Monks Motorcycles and More

My first house guests arrived to open arms on Saturday afternoon.  A neighbouring volunteer, only "1h45 away by taxi door to door", arrived with her brother and sister-in-law.  It was so great to see friendly faces, go to the market together, and cook in my kitchen...fresh coconut juice to start, followed by curried pumpkin, rice and boiled eggs, ending with fresh pineapple.  It was scrumptious. Thanks you guys!

Ellen in pink (volunteer) Stephen, and Tessa visiting from the Netherlands.

Easter KitKat hunt. 

With their stash!

Sadly, my very first guest were heading off on an early bus...would you believe 6:45 am much to Stephen's chagrin!  I think the 5:15 hunt was what really got him out of bed.  And, my guests were off to explore the wilds of Battambong and Siem Reap before heading back to the paradise of Stong Tren.   And I was left feeling, well, tired quite frankly, as well as lonely...my first day off with no one around for about 2+ months.





Not to despair, I set about cleaning up the area outside my fence and burned my garbage.  It was fun seeing all the neighbours going by and smiling, chatting with me.  I sure wish I knew what they were saying but I think they were indicating that cleaning up garbage from the street is an endless job.  While out there, an Australian fellow and his friend stopped by and stayed for tea, then another volunteer from Uganda stopped by.  To quote Anna, how great is that to have breakfast with Dutch people and tea with Australians and a Ugandan in one day.  Ya guess it is pretty great.

I think the raining season is starting as most days we have heavy rains at about 4 pm.  I like just swinging in my hammock as the deluge comes down. At times I deceive myself and pretend I'm getting used to the heat.  After the rain, I actually thought I was chilly.  Turns out I just wasn't hot and sweaty! Sort of the same, right?

The rains as seen from my hammock

 Well, it is the K'mai New Year starting tomorrow and things are very busy.  People are off to families and temples and having their houses blessed.  We also had a blessing at the office.  It was lovely to see how revered the monks are and the hierarchy of respect.  First the monks arrive by car and everyone is very excited.  Then,the monks sit in the designated area on cushions with bowls of flower petals and candy and a lovely wrapped gift in front of each of them.  I was the only non-Cambodian there but everyone was very welcoming to me and motioned for me to join the women on the mats. Candles lit, incense burning, and the chanting begins.  I love the chanting and the devotion.

At the start of the ceremony the directors approached the monks . 

Chanting and praying

After the monks throw the flower petals and candies, they are presented with their gifts 

The following day, there was a big New Year's banquet at the Provincial Office of Education complete with the bigwigs in education for the province.  It was amazing to see how they are treated like royalty, really!  The fresh fish were taken from the pond, cooked on a fire, and so much food...noodles, soups, meats and greens, bread and yes, French wine!  As the big Poo bahs walked by and spotted us, we were motioned to the head table to eat with the royalty.  Quite a privilege apparently.  I must say, I am much more comfortable with the working stiffs.  However, the wine was good!

the fishing was quite the spectator sport

Catfish in the "bag"

Now they are really getting in the bag

These kids were giggling with glee every time the fish were netted

One of the spectators

Soon to be served to the masses

Just a glimpse of what was a huge amount of food

Yours truly and my Ugandan colleague eating at the head table between the fish ponds.  Within the first few minutes I dropped my water bottle in the nicely cleaned fish pond!

Well, I am now on about a week off for the New Year and really too pooped to go anywhere.  I am so tired of moving about living out of a suitcase, that I am enjoying just taking some time to get my thoughts organized not to mention my place. It has been very stressful trying to get used to a new life here, to learn the language, to live with people I just met, to understand not only the K'mai culture but the culture and ways of fellow volunteers, to find a place to live, and all hours of travel by bus from place to place.  I love the K'mai people, their smiles, there openness, and warmth.  We all have so much to learn.  Whenever I find I'm feeling at a loss, I get my motorcycle on the road and I am so busy trying to stay alive, I feel the excitement getting the better of me.

The chaos on the streets of Sisophon

Yup, that's me!! 

On my way into the chaos

Louise, your picture is on my fridge!  Love that smiling face.

I have had some people request a mailing address for me so I will include the two possibilities below.  The first is my local address but I have had word that the Canadian post office would only send mail to Phnom Penh.  Maybe that was only for parcels. Anyway, if you are so inclined, snail mail is a real treat.  No pressure though.  It could take months to get here although it is very unpredictable.

Andrea Vowell
P.O. Box 0120
Sisophon Town,
Banteay Meanchey Province
CAMBODIA

or

Andrea Vowell
c/o VSO Cambodia
#17, Street 234,
Sangkat Phsar Deumkor, Khan Tuol kork,
PO Box 912,
Phnom Penh,
Cambodia

Tel: 023 882 768/ 023 882 758

Hey Terry, maybe all the brain work to learn K'mai will help me in Scrabble!

Well, that's all folks.  I miss you all so much and am forever grateful to have so many truly lovely family and friends.  Lots of hugs, love, and, thoughts!!!

Home sweet home

Hello everyone!  

Finally I have made it to my placement of Banteay Meanchey Town, or Sereisisophon, or...I don't know what the name of this place really is because it depends what you want to say and where you are.  Before I get to my placement, I leave you with a parting sight of Phnom Penh with glimpses of the past as these two pass in the street carrying their goods.  

crossing paths

So, after parting with some of my goods which were to be sent with the other volunteer in 3 days, I was up at 6am to catch the bus to my placement, and endure the 7 hour trip.  Just so you know that it isn't just relaxing on a bus watching a Cambodian vampire movie, I thought I would add that the driver was regularly texting or phoning while he was "keeping an eye" on the road.  You really have to be here to appreciate the big picture of cyclists, horse and carts, tractors, motorcycles, trucks, other buses, and cars all sharing the 2 lane road.  Yes, I arrived in one piece and my VA (volunteer assistant) picked me up at the bus and we road his motorcycle with me, and my duffle, backpack, and "purse", to look at accommodation.

Let me introduce you to my new home.

This is outside the gate with my push bike (which now has a flat!). 

This is inside the gate.

My kitchen complete with fridge. (not everyone is so lucky)

Where the gourmet cooking will happen :-) The big white thing is my water filter

My downstairs living space and garage for my motorcycle. 

Where I dream of all the creepy crawly things OUTSIDE the net.  Yes, I am making doubly sure everything is tucked in now!!!!

My shower with hot water...really, who in their right mind would want hot water! 

When my VA wrote about the house, he enticed me with "an inside toilet"!  Bonus!! Until I met my new 8-legged friend this morning. 

My verandah (with glimpses of the construction material). My orchids haven't started flowering yet.  

View from my verandah

So, now you can see where I live.  I have cable TV ...if you enjoy listening to Khmer...actually there are English channels with lots of football (soccer) CNN, and BBC news.  I have only listened to K'mai as I am so wanting to get the hang of the language.  Yikes!  Will I ever manage it?  I have internet but the cable kind so no facebooking from inside my mosquito net.

Apparently the house is creature friendly.  The geckos startle me as they dart out from places where I'm not expecting to see anything move.  I do however love them and fall asleep to their chirping.  And, as some of you may have seen my post on Facebook, I have a creepy house guest sharing my toilet. I think I jinxed myself when I told Jesse that I hadn't seen any tarantulas yet.  It wasn't actually a tarantula...

I have come up with a name yet. Any suggestions? 

This is what greeted my sleepy eyes this morning when I went to have a pee.  I now knock before I enter but tonight it was back and the knocking first didn't do any good.  I thought it was safely locked in the bathroom until I notices a 4 inch square hole connecting the toilet room to the shower room.  Now, all 3 doors to that area of the house are bolted shut.  Do you think that will work?  Hopefully I won't have to pee in the night.  

Well, to make matters worse, my VA was telling me about centipedes.  My first encounter was in the hotel in Kampong Cham.  Anna, another volunteer found one in her room and together we investigated.  We got it in a glass ashtray to have a closer look.  When I took it outside to have a local tell me what it was, he freaked out, told me to drop it on the ground then he stepped on it.  So it was interesting having Vomith explain that he sleeps under the mosquito net to keep the centipedes out!  REALLY!!!  It would seem that once bitten you feel like you are going to die for about 24 hours.  Okay guess I really need to tuck my net it tight!

It is getting late and must to bed.  The roosters next door don't really know what time it is and start there noise anywhere from 4 am to 5 am.  Actually they can cock-a-doodle-doo just about anytime.  Guess no one told them to be quiet until sunrise!

I will leave you with pictures of my VA, Vomith.

This is Vomith with his 2 year old son. 

Vomith, his wife, and Alexander ready to ride home from the park...yes, all three on the bike.

Night all.  Hope you enjoy.  Again, love to hear from you.  Oh yes, and I have a spare room...if anyone is interested in a visit...off the beaten track...creatures and all.  

Lots of love and hugs,
Andy

Everyday a new beginning.

Hello Everyone,

Wow! You have been a great support.  Thanks so much for your encouragement and thoughtful comments.  I am doing quite fine now...nothing like a full blown meltdown to clear out all the residual stress that was building.  Survived, and even feeling excited about the next stage, the actual living in Sisophon and getting "established" in a routine of work and living K'mai.

So, what has happened lately. The big excitement was receiving a parcel from Canada.  Yahoo!  It was fun opening it with the other volunteers hovering over it to see what goodies were within.  And goodies there were.  THANK YOU KYMBERLEY!!! Unfortunately, the parcel had to be opened then put away as it was delivered moments before we were heading off to a "home-stay".  This was the part where we were to learn how many K'mai people live and practice our newly acquired language skill.  HAHAHAHAHA!!! Really?  I don't know what language they were speaking.  Some of the sounds did bear some resemblance to what Dara taught us and I did catch the odd, very odd, word but I would say, I have my work cut out for me.

Distributing mosquito nets for the homestay

This is the communities delivery room ...on this very bed!!

This is really how the children are transported...as is.  

The children were thrilled to see "tall Barang" who can play football.  

The family we stayed with was lovely.  The living was very simple, with cooking out the back, and eating out the front.  There was a very mangy dog (which barked all night along with the neighbours' dogs) several cows, chickens, roosters (which by the way, cock-a-doodle-do all through the night) and baby chicken scattered throughout.  The sleeping quarters were upstairs, where everyone just crashes on the hardwood floor in the one large room...everyone in the same room.  The toilet was down the steep back steps to the outside.  You don't want to have to pee in the middle of the night because the house is locked up and well, how would one negotiate the steep steps in the darkness.  There were other things in the night that I really didn't want to encounter either (spiders, centipedes for example).  There were 2 children who were living with their grandparents (owners of the house) who loved to follow us and join us for walks.  The parents of the children work in Phnom Penh, and the children see their parents about twice a year.  From what I could tell, there wasn't a lot of affection and the children always did exactly as they were instructed regarding chores.

Grandmother 

Grandfather who was delighted to help with my Kmai and practice his  French! 

The sweet sweet granddaughter. 

The out back kitchen

The very cute grandson. 

the back yard with the "toilet out of view.

These little piggies are going to be "roast pork" 

chickies eating all the bugs just like their parents.

After a sleepless night of dogs barking and geckos croaking, we got up to a delicious breakfast and headed back to Kampong Cham.  Sunday was a relaxing day for showers, laundry and exchanging stories about our home-stays with the other volunteers.  Monday was very exciting.  That was our in-country motorcycle training.  Wow! That sure gets the adrenaline pumping, riding a motorcycle in Cambodia.  It was very funny because when we first started, we were just riding around the parking lot of the hotel.  I of course was remembering my B.C. training where you lost points for putting your foot down.  So, first turn, without putting my foot down, was a tad wide and I was heading right for some oil drums.  I managed to stop (okay, I sort of crashed but in slow motion and nothing damaged).     I, at least, managed to avoid the parked cars unlike one of the other volunteers.  Then I learned that you need to put your foot down when making tight turns.  After that, I was off and never looked back.  We rode through soft sand, bumpy dirt roads, through street vendors and markets, on the major highway and across the highway bridge.  Watch out Cambodia!  I can't believe that I will have my very own motorbike when I get to Sisophon.  Feels like a new toy.  I must say I so enjoy the challenge.

I have a lead on a house in Sisophon so will have a look at it when I get up there on Sunday.  I am just finishing up the in-country training in Phnom Penh, buying last minute treats to take to the "hinterland" of Banteay Mencheay, and then saying sad farewells to my fellow volunteers who will be spread out all over Cambodia.  I can't express how exhilarating this whole experience has been so far.  You have to love the full spectrum of emotions that truly make you realize that you are very much alive.  The drastic cultural changes and all the transitions are bound to affect us all, but resilient we are and I couldn't be happier with the support I feel from everyone at home and from my fellow volunteers.  Life is pretty darn great.

Thanks you all for your concerns, comments and encouragement.  I love hearing about your lives so keep sending your news.  I so cherish all of you and appreciate that you are there.

Lots of love and thoughts,
Andrea

It isn't all roses!

I suppose it was only a matter of time before my bubble of excitement exploded into the harsh reality of what  it means to live in Sreisiphon for 2 years.  This is definitely not part of a tourist circuit.  My barang (foreigner) status makes me very obvious as there are few who venture here other than volunteers or NGO's of some sort.  English isn't understood, but then again, neither is my Khmer. In the big picture, perhaps my Khmer will improve more rapidly. I haven't brought myself to taking many pictures yet because...well...it is hard to get motivated to take photos of dust, dirt, potholes, traffic, and pancake flat countryside.  The one redeeming feature is a hill or two near town but that is it.

The view of a main street in Sreisiphon with one of the two mountains. 

There is no western food, house hunting has been, hum, discouraging and have I mentioned it is hot and humid. Back to the food thing...I am not going to resist the brownies in Kampong Cham when I go back and I may even allow myself a tandoori chicken burger with fries.  And April, about posting those delicious food items you are making...I'm making a list with the expectation that you will prepare my favourites in 2 years time.  

Well, if I sound bummed out, I might be. Wait a minute, I can hear the monks chanting in the distance!  Ahhhh yes perhaps I should be more Buddhist-like in my thinking.  The children are so delightful though and people are very friendly, always smiling and eager to please.  Then of course, I must realize why I am here.  I truly would like to contribute to making this world a better place even if it is just with tiny steps, in an impoverished country, where people deserve to have a better life.  Okay, feeling better.  Thanks all staying tuned.

Two Days Later


Not so fast Andrea!  An update on yet another bad day.  Just starting to ask myself if I will manage to survive.  I was fine last night when I found a place to live and was going to sign the contract today.  After a couple of hours negotiating and translating, contract signed and feeling like I may manage a couple of years here, the husband decides he wants 1 year's rent guaranteed.  What? We had agreed on 3 months payment at a time for 2 years! (VSO's policy).  Okay, cancel contract.  So I am back to training in Kampong Cham, with the prospect that I will be living out of a suitcase for the foreseeable future...at a guesthouse.

Well if that didn't bum me out, a storm was a brewing.  There was thunder and lightning and WINDS and FLOODS!  Sitting in my room watching the water flooding my hotel room floor as it streamed in around the windows, when a gust of wind came and blew the window out.  There it was, hanging by a piece of metal.  Luckily the other volunteer grabbed the window before it fell to the ground 3 floors below.  It was scary.  Too busy to take pictures.  Oh, did I mention the power was out and they had candles in the hallway. No emergency lights here. The hotel staff managed to rescue the window but I needed a new room.  So, here I am in yet another room that is also flooded but at least it has a window.

This was just a "shower" they say, wait until the monsoons!

I did have a highlight today.  I hire a very lovely VA (Volunteer Assistant).  His name is Vomith.  He is sooooo lovely and gentle and kind.  He will be a real joy.  The fun part was when he took me to check out a guesthouse for when I return.  I got to ride on the back of his motorbike!  just like the Cambodians do! on bumpy, dusty, roads, weaving around the potholes and slowing for the obstacles (you would never in your wildest dreams imagine the variety of obstacles).  And you know what?  I felt such excitement about my life in Sreisiphon.

Wonder what is in store for my next blog.  Well Kymberley, you have no idea how meaningful your care package will be.  I don't care if the peanut butter cookies are powder by the time I get them.  They are going to be soooooooo appreciated!!!

Lots of love everyone and thanks for the emails.  They really do keep me going.  See ya next time.

A day in life in Kampuchia

Ice coffee during break at school ...that is yummy condensed milk on the bottom.

It strikes me once in in a while as I am comfortably cycling in the chaotic traffic of Kampong Cham that this is my life in for the next two years.  Okay, I'll be in Sisophon, or Srei Sisophon, or Banteay Meanchey Town, (your choice) but Kampuchia all the same.

The other morning cycling to school, I passed a fellow on a bicycle with textiles piled high behind and in front of him as he pedalled his way to the market.  Once past him, I turned the corner and I got stuck behind a motorcyclist herding his cows down the road.  I rode through them slaloming the cow dung, and calves not wanting to get separated from their mother.  But these Bhramas ? (help me out Larry) have the sweetest faces with loppy ears making them so endearing...except for the poo.

 As I played chicken through the intersection and negotiated my way onto the street the school is on, there was a no entry sign which bikes and motos can ignore.  Just outside the school there were 2 very long tents with music blaring indicating the preparations for a wedding ceremony which continues for at least 2 days. Unfortunately it was directly across from the school.  Can you imagine 6 hours of Khmer, trying to get your mouth and tongue around undecipherable sounds to the competition of some outrageously inharmonious music.  Holy headache!

This is Dara.  He is a brilliant Khmer language teacher and a very lovely human being.  He was a youngster during the Khmer Rouge regime.  It is truly unbelievable to hear some of what he had to live through.  The lovely disposition of the people here and what they have experienced is remarkable.






 After class in the afternoon, we headed to a Vietnamese pancake shop for some dinner.  Incredibly good!

 These nummy pancakes are packed full of pork and bean sprouts.  You break pieces off and wrap them in the green leafy bits with cucumbers and dip them into a spicy-sweet-sour sauce.  This is full-on eating with your hands! 1 pancake per person.

On the way back to the hotel, the "jazzercise"  class was happening by the river.  This by the way is free and is as much about participation as it is about a spectator sport.  Some evenings, there are more motorcycles lined up watching than there are jazzercisers!

 Just so that you know, it isn't all school work.  On Tuesday, we did have an introduction to what life will really be like when we get to our placements.  All of the partners from around Cambodia came to Kampong Cham where we met our "employers" and had our eyes open to life full of translating and smiles.  My contact spoke zero English and I'm afraid my Khmer is purely academic at this stage.  However, I did get interest when I asked my person to write "my name is Andy/Andrea" in Khmer script.  It looks lovely!  (I'm called Andy here because it seems easier for people to pronounce.)

Lunch was fish, vegetables, lots and lots of rice, beef and veggies, with fresh fruit for dessert.

And, just so you don't think it is all sunshine, sweaty heat, and blue sky.  It did rain for about 10 minutes while we were eating lunch.  Unfortunately, it didn't cool things off much.

Well, that about sums it up for now.  I'm off to my placement for a week to meet everyone, hire a translator, open a bank account, post office box, and find a place to live.  Should be interesting.  I leave at 7:30 am and arrive at 4:00 pm.  However, it is probably the distance to Kelowna from GF.

Life continues to be amazing and every day is an adventure of some sort.  I'll leave you with a picture of a favourite...Tom Yam Soup.  Hope you are all doing well and don't forget to drop me a line.  Nothing like getting mail!  Lots of love and good health to one and all.  See you next blog.